Lucy Locket Lost Her Pocket

Since binding sucks, I decided to take a break from it and make a pocket. I have the J.P. Ryan Women's Basic Clothing Pattern (found here) but it includes quite a large pocket. Using the same general shape, I made a smaller pattern.

I traced the pattern onto some extra duck I had from my stays. J.P. Ryan suggests linen but since a pocket isn't seen I didn't really care about the fabric choice.

Wrong side on the outside :(

I cut a slit in on side of the fabric and sewed the edges of the slit down. I then sewed both pieces of the pocket together and turned it right-side out through the pocket slit.

That's when I realized I had forgot to put right sides together and what was technically the inside of the slitted-pocket was now on the outside... I didn't want to unpick all the stitches though, so I decided to cover the mistake with extra binding from the stays I was working on.


The only problem with adding the binding was I couldn't get it to curve neatly around the bottom part of the slit. I decided to add a bow to the very bottom to cover this up. I took the bow off a Christmas gift bag, so it's not the nicest looking, but it will do for now.

Don't do this.

Now I just needed to add the ties. I first tried using some 3/4 inch twill tape and some heavy duty red thread. This did not work. The tape tore off after I tried it on.

Do this.

Onto plan B. I decided to use two strips of ribbon left over from cutting out a chemise. I folded them lengthwise twice and then sewed it down into a strip. I then sewed this onto the pocket around three sides of the strip, instead of just one like I did previously. It seems pretty strong and looks a lot better than it did before. I don't really like how the tape is white and the pocket is brown, but oh well.

The pocket is the perfect size for a few modern-day essentials and fits my phone perfectly. I'd love to eventually learn how to embroider a pocket, but for now, this will do.

Pocket worn with unfinished stays. :)

Adding the Bones

After researching the best types of boning, I decided to use cable ties. Whale bone was obviously out, and I didn't want to have to order boning online and wait a long time. Joann's doesn't have much for a historical sewer.

Enter the Home Depot. I got one bag of 36 inch cable ties. It ended up being the perfect amount for my stays. I had exactly zero leftovers.

I cut the ties to the right size and then used sand paper to round the edges. It took quite a while and I got a few blisters, but I'm glad I used cable ties. They're very light but also hold their shape well when there's a bunch of them together. 

A just cut bone on the bottom and a smoothed bone on the top.

The stays with all the boning